Well, first and foremost, tourists to the DRC are generally unheard of. The majority of this small population typically is reserved for Gorilla Treks in Bukavu/Virunga, on the eastern side of the country along the Rwandan border. Kinshasa tourists, therefore, are an even bigger anomaly.
Luckily, I’m completely used to having to explain my weird, freakish ways, so when a typical conversation with a new person generally went as follows, I was able to laugh and usually make a new friend…
New Person (NP): “Hi! I’m X! Who do you work for in Kin?”
Me: “Oh, actually, I’m here visiting my frien—“
NP: “What?! You’re VISITING?!”
Me: “Yep! Do you know the Toths? Kevin works for the US Embassy and Kristen runs the Crossfit gym?”
NP: “Yes they’re great! But wait… you’re visiting them? They’re so lucky!! No one EVER visits Kinshasa – I’ve lived here X years and never had a visitor! What do you think of Congo?”
Annnnddddd thus, I had to rather quickly and somewhat eloquently determine how to explain my thoughts about Kinshasa and Congo. This is what I’ve decided…
- The traffic in Kinshasa is nothing like I’ve ever experienced. I’ve been in NYC gridlock. I’ve been in Bangkok rushhour. I’ve been on the NJ turnpike heading down the shore for a summer weekend… Kinshasa is just berserk. I don’t know if it’s the corruption of the police force and subsequent lack of adherence to traffic laws by the populace… or if it’s the self-importance of the Congolese/Kinshasaites and their “what I need right now is the most important thing” but it’s certainly SOMETHING. Cars go every direction in every intersection at any given moment. They will drive in the wrong lane towards oncoming traffic at any point. Pedestrians pushing carts, carrying baskets of produce on their heads, or hoards of children will pop off the sidewalk if they see an oncoming car that they THINK might slow down enough for them to force a crossing. It. Is. Just. Nuts. I can 100% understand why some NGOs don’t allow their employees to drive.
- The expat community of Kinshasa is excellent. Everyone is SO friendly and welcoming and there are tons of activities going on – more than you would expect! I think this might be a virtue of each organization and embassy not being especially large, so everyone bands together to share their resources. It makes for this incredibly vibrant and exciting international community.
- SURPRISE THEY SPEAK FRENCH AND I DO NOT. That was infinitely embarrassing and not really a “surprise” for anyone who does their research beforehand, but, of course, I was more excited about visiting Kristen than I was about looking into the Congo sooooo that was interesting. Whoops!
- Is. Expensive. I’m not talking like “oh it’s expensive compared to Tanzania and Botswana because lots of places in Africa seem ‘cheap’ for first world travelers.” I mean like their import tax is 100%. Yes, you read that correctly. ONE. HUNDRED. PERCENT. This means that in order for a shop to make any profit at all, they have to price items at 201% of their at-cost value in order to make a 1% profit (obviously they list for more than 1%.. but you get the picture). Additionally, anything that involves dairy is even MORE expensive because DRC does not have any dairy cows, so all cheese and milk-related products are imported. Annnnnnd since the Congolese import/customs process is so… let’s say it’s complex… fresh milk simply isn’t able to be safely imported. I tried the shelf-stable stuff once. Gross. (Luckily there were cookies involved so I was saved by chocolate and sugar.)
- Following on the heels of the cost of living in Kinshasa *must* be commentary on the haves vs have nots in DRC. The country is so, so, so incredibly divided by the lines of wealth…. I have never seen so many homeless individuals who simply do not have access to public services. Even Congolese who have “good” jobs by local standards, doing things like nannying for embassy workers, show signs of how hard life is in Congo if you’re not rich…. Kristen’s nanny, for example, won’t allow her kids to play outside or run because she fears that the kids will get hurt. And by hurt I mean a cut or a scrape. The reason is… because for many Congolese, even simple medical care is completely out of reach, and children with simple injuries can become severely ill or die without things we don’t even think twice about in the US. (Things like… oh… antibacterial wipes and bandaids.) Illness is also incredibly common among the poor due to the horrendous lack-of-public service problem…the sewers are all above ground and the garbage dumps are…the streets. There are very little places to go and be “clean” if you don’t have much. Then, of course, you have the insanely rich Congolese that own construction and internet companies, who want for nothing and hang out in rooftop bars where rum and cokes cost $30 and think nothing of the expense. Driving across the city, you can literally see the divide between the two “sides of Kinshasa” so to speak – it’s surreal and bizarre and not altogether comfortable.
Now, all that said, I do want to mention that I’m so glad I went into DRC and Kinshasa without any expectations aside from visiting my friend. It’s the first time I went somewhere without a preconceived notion of how it would be, and I believe that it allowed me to experience Kinshasa honestly, which I truly enjoyed. I don’t know if I could personally life there simply because of the safety difficulties, but I am so, so incredibly glad I was able to visit. DRC may be the 8th most dangerous country in the world right now, but if you’re able, it is worth visiting and experiencing what the country has to offer. Even if you’re just popping in via Rwanda to see the Gorillas (which I may STILL try to do, who knows!!), go. See the country and talk to people and learn as much as you can about what’s going on there. If nothing else, it will ensure that you are grateful for the safety and security of the place you come from, and at most, you’ll meet some incredible people and see amazing things that will stay with you indefinitely.
I’m glad that you were able to go and this explanation is eye opening and informative. I’m glad you’re safe and I’m also glad that you were able to experience it with little/to no preconceptions.
Keep touring the world.♡